The church of Carcar, situated on an elevated plain with a commanding view of the town, is one of the few well-built stone churches in Cebu. The harmonious design and the careful layout of the church itself are obviously the works of a lettered architect or planner.

Dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria, a legendary 4th century scholar and martyr, the church was built by the Augustinians between 1860-1875 and features various influences including Islamic and Graeco-Roman. Islamic influences are evident in the massive recessed arch above the main entrance and the openings or the windows of the twin belfries.

The main altar retablo inside the church is basically Graeco-Roman in design according to the Augustinian historian Pedro Galende, OSA in his book entitled Angels and Stone. It is still the original although certain parts of it like the lower portion have been covered with what looks like plywood or perhaps a thin layer of cement. The covered portions of the retablo can be viewed from the back by standing at the door to the sacristy. A closer inspection however reveals that such contemporary modifications can still be reversed.

Photos below: (1) A vintage photo showing the retablo in its most original form; (2) The retablo today with the covered lower portion.

A vintage photo shows a large crucifix occupying the main niche although today it is occupied by a statue of St. Catherine. Two smaller niches made of light materials, a contemporary addition, flank both sides of it and are each occupied with the images of St. Joseph and the Blessed Virgin Mary. Symbols that are attributed to St. Catherine such as the breaking wheel and the initials SC are carved in low relief in certain parts of the retablo.

Below: The pediment topped with carved statues of a blindfolded woman carrying a chalice in her left hand, an angel, and another woman.

Below: Details of the carved bas-relieves.

This blog will feature some of the remaining historical retablos in Cebu and will run for several weeks.

One of the most sought after sight when entering a Spanish-colonial church in any location in our country is the elaborately carved retablo which serves as a backdrop for an altar. The retablo usually has niches that contain statues of saints and is richly decorated with carvings of different motifs. It captivates the eyes of anyone entering the church from the main door and such may have contributed to the speeding up of the conversion of the natives. I myself have been fascinated with these old retablos that I can no longer count the number of times that I keep coming back to a particular church just to gaze at it. I look at them not on the religious side but as wonderful works of art bearing in mind that these are excellent products of Filipino craftsmanship.

Here in Cebu, some of the old churches that still have retablos are becoming popular sights for tourists and heritage buffs. Unfortunately though there are only a few left since some have been torn down while others were “deliberately removed” and “transferred” elsewhere to become an addition to a collection. Some were also destroyed during the last world war.

Due to my fascination to it, I have decided to dedicate the next few weeks to featuring some of the remaining historical retablos in Cebu. The criteria that I have set is that they must date back to the Spanish colonial era with the exception of the new retablos that were installed at the Cebu Metropolitan Cathedral in time for the 75th anniversary of the Archdiocese of Cebu.

The deliberate destruction of our beautiful retablos must stop. I’m hoping that by undertaking this feature I will be able to educate Filipinos with regards to these precious works of art in wood.

The image of the Sto. Niño de Cebu is returned to the then San Agustin Church, now the Basilica Minore del Sto. Niño, after being safely kept at the Redemptorist convent during the aerial bombings of World War II. Photo above shows a Redemptorist priest and an Augustinian friar with the image.

(Photo sourced from MacArthur Memorial Museum, Norfolk, Virginia, USA and posted in Skyscrapercity Forums)

CEBU CITY (Dec. 31, 2009) — ’Tis the season for reunions and family gatherings and so it came to pass that the writers and photographers of the hugely successful (my bias is showing!) 308-page coffee table book “Balaanong Bahandi” reunited at our residence in Sto. Nino Village the other day to plan the next step now that the book is out.

To recall, “Balaanong Bahandi: Sacred Treasures of the Archdiocese of Cebu” was launched last Nov. 26 at the Cathedral Museum of Cebu by both the museum and its co-publisher the University of San Carlos Press. As its editor and project manager, I repeated what was promised during the pre-selling blitz for the book that was held in July this year: a smaller volume would soon follow. Well, the meeting-cum-swim party was finally held the other day in order to fulfill this promise. And the end result will hopefully come out when the Archdiocese of Cebu closes its Diamond Jubilee Celebrations on April 28, 2010.

The authors and photographers of Balaanong Bahandi agreed that the title of this forthcoming book will be “Duaw: A Guide to the Stone Churches of Cebu” and, unlike its parent Balaanong Bahandi, this book will be paper bound to make it as accessible to the public as possible. Albeit in full color, it will only feature the 28 or so coral stone churches of Cebu, starting with the Cebu Metropolitan Cathedral and the Basilica del Sto. Niño. This will reduce the number of pages to manageable proportions.

For starters, Duaw will not only serve as a source of historical information on the original stone churches built by Augustinians, Augustinian Recollects, Jesuits and Seculars. It will also serve as the ultimate tour guide a la “Lonely Planet” on these colonial structures, including their rectories, campo santos (cemeteries), museums, shrines and anything else found within them. Its target buyers and readers are cultural tourists, yet it also leaves room for the religious pilgrims or those intent on doing “Visita Iglesia” during Holy Week, or the balikbayan who wants to make some sacred journey out of an otherwise mundane tour of colonial churches.

Duaw will be written differently from Balaanong Bahandi, with photographs that will also make for an interesting step by step appreciation of the beauty of sacred art and architecture. While every church featured will also carry a prayer for the patron saint it advocates, Duaw will not pretend to be a “churchy” book full of lamentations and prayers. For it endeavors to merge the tourist, the curious and the pilgrim, all wanting to know more about their faith (or the absence of it) amid the work of God through the hands of men and women now long gone.

Because it is designed as a tourist guidebook, all authors have been instructed to make a timed and detailed walk around these churches and their surroundings and pick out the most interesting features, providing exact instructions like where to start the tour, when to turn the corner, how to climb the belfry, what to look for in the choir loft and, most importantly, how long a tour of a particular church will take and whether there are pension houses around if one needs to stay in town overnight.

It is my hope the His Eminence Ricardo J .Cardinal Vidal will approve this book project as soon as it is presented to him. For it is time that people visit these churches not just as detached tourists unable to see meaning in what is before them. At the same time, there is a need to bring tourism into the realm of the sacred journey. Perhaps with Duaw, the Archdiocese of Cebu, shall have once again set the pace for all other church districts to follow. I wish the Duaw team all the best in this upcoming project. Once again, the meager proceeds will go to supporting the work of the Cathedral Museum of Cebu. And here’s wishing all the readers of CDN a more fulfilling and more prosperous year ahead.

Above: Bishop Juan Gorordo’s baptismal record at the parish of St. Anne in Barili, Cebu (Photo posted by vip1852 in Flickr.com).

CEBU CITY (Dec. 20, 2009) — The Archdiocese of Cebu commemorates today the 75th death anniversary of Bishop Juan Gorordo, the first Filipino Bishop of Cebu. A Holy Mass at the Cebu Metropolitan Cathedral will be officiated by Cebu Archbishop Ricardo Cardinal Vidal at 4 PM and will be followed by the opening of the Bishop Juan Gorordo Exhibit at the Cathedral Museum of Cebu.

Born in the southwestern town of Barili, Cebu on April 18, 1862 to Juan Isidro Bautista de Gorordo and Telesfora Garces, Juan Gorordo rose to become the secretary of the diocese until eventually becoming its first Filipino Bishop. Gorordo’s appointment as the first Filipino Bishop of Cebu was very much received with great joy and pride since it signified the Vatican’s trust on the Filipino clergy to administer the local church.

Having served for more than 20 years, Bishop Gorordo resigned on July 31. He died on December 20, 1934.

CEBU CITY (Nov. 29, 2009) — Starting December 1, 2009 the coffeetable book entitled Balaanong Bahandi, Sacred Treasures of the Archdiocese of Cebu will now be available to the public. Out of the thousands that were printed, there are only less than 800 copies of the book that have remained unsold. To purchase a copy of it, visit the Cathedral Museum of Cebu or email me at knightcarl [at] cebuheritage [dot] com.

CEBU CITY (Nov. 26, 2009) — The coffeetable book on parish churches in Cebu entitled “Balaanong Bahandi, Sacred Treasures of the Archdiocese of Cebu” was successfully launched a while ago at the Cathedral Museum of Cebu with Cebu Archbishop Ricardo Cardinal Vidal signing the first ten copies which were distributed to the top sponsors and to the archives of the Cathedral Museum of Cebu, the Archdiocese of Cebu and the Catholic Bishops Conference of the Philippines.

Published by the Cathedral Museum of Cebu, Inc. and the University of San Carlos Press, the book features more than 290 pages of full color photographs of various parish churches in the archdiocese including, but not limited to, tangible treasures of faith such as statues of saints made of ivory or wood, altar retablos, centuries-old bells, among others. Various personalities from all walks of life including Cebu Governor Gwendolyn Garcia, a staunch heritage advocate, attended the event.

Those who have reserved copies of the book and have paid for it in advance will be able to claim their copies starting December 1 next week since the publisher is still finalizing the next batch of copies to be released. There are only less than 800 copies of the book that are available. Interested buyers may still be able to order. For inquiries do please send me an email at knightcarl [at] cebuheritage [dot] com.

Below (left to right): Jobers Bersales, the book project director, delivering the opening message during the launching; Cebu Archbishop Ricardo Cardinal Vidal is shown the first ten copies of the book.

Below: One of the photographers affixing his signature at the copies of the book that were given to the top sponsors.

CEBU CITY (Nov. 15, 2009) — The coffeetable book that will feature parish churches in Cebu will be launched in the afternoon of November 26, 2009 at the Cathedral Museum of Cebu. After this occasion, those who have made reservations and have paid in advance will be able to claim their books.

Published by the Cathedral Museum of Cebu and the Archdiocesan Commission for the Cultural Heritage of the Church in collaboration with the University of San Carlos Press, the book will feature houses of faith that have withstood time eventually giving birth to newer parishes. It aims to continue the work of Felipe Redondo who first documented the history of the Catholic church in Cebu in an opus entitled Breve reseña de lo que fue y de lo que es la Diócesis de Cebú en las Islas Filipinas which was published in 1886. Full color photographs interspersed with archival pictures will bring in some of the archdiocese’s tangible treasures of faith.

The book was initially sold to the public for P1,500. It is now sold for P2,000 and will also be sold at the same price in some leading bookstores after the launching. Proceeds of the book will go a long way in the development of the ecclesiastical museum. For inquiries and clarification, please call (032) 4123455 and look for Sister Mary Joseph or Mrs. Baby Arnoco.

Above: The pre-war main building.

Tucked behind high concrete walls is another heritage jewel waiting to be discovered. The Mandaue campus of the Colegio dela Inmaculada Concepcion has a pre-war school building that is still in perfect condition and serves as one of the last examples of religious educational edifices in Cebu that have survived the ravages of war — and man.

The main structure, a high-ceiling two-storey wooden building, is slightly elevated from the ground similar to Gabaldon-type school buildings. Beside it is an adjoined low structure that bears obvious influences of the typical bipartite “bahay-na-bato” construction. Perhaps the two structures were from two different periods of time.

Below: An archival photo of the old building (Photo courtesy of Jobers Bersales).

What caught my attention was a low round concrete structure beside the main building with some of the cement chipped away revealing some cut-coral stones beneath it. It was obviously a water well that dates back to the Spanish colonial era only that it has now been covered with concrete on top and plastered with cement all over. A water well is an excavation or structure created in the ground by digging, driving, boring or drilling to access groundwater in underground aquifers.

A staff from the school told me that during the Japanese occupation during World War II the basement of the main building was used as a garrison by the Japanese Imperial Army. History now plays a role here. It’s good enough to know that the Sisters running the school have very much well preserved the buildings especially that they tell a story of their humble beginnings as an educational institution.

Below: The adjoined low structure.

Below: A water well that has been covered with concrete on top and plastered with cement all over.

Above: The crypt of the Basilica Minore del Sto. Niño.

Catholics all over the world commemorate the day of the saints on November 1 and all those who have faithfully departed from this world on November 2. Filipinos in particular mark the celebration as early as October 31 when bus terminals, airports, and ports become busy with traffic from those eager to go to their hometowns. Some keep themselves busy cleaning their respective plots in the cemeteries while others stay at home to prepare food for visiting relatives.

In the morning of the first day of November, my heritage buddies Estan Cabigas and Joseph Cabrera decided to visit some cemeteries in Cebu City to shoot some photos. The original plan though was to just visit the historical Osmeña Cemetery in M.J. Cuenco Avenue but we decided later on to include Carreta Cemetery and the Cebu Chinese Cemetery since the two are just located nearby. We also included in our itinerary the crypt of the Basilica Minore del Sto. Niño.

The three of us met at the plaza of the Cebu Metropolitan Cathedral. The cathedral itself has a mausoleum that contains the mortal remains of Bishop Juan Gorordo, the first Filipino and Cebuano Bishop of Cebu, and Archbishop Julio Cardinal Rosales, the first Cardinal-Archbishop of Cebu. Unfortunately though, the mausoleum was padlocked. My suggestion for the rector is to build a decent mausoleum for the cathedral and to open it to the public for them to pay their respects to some of the great leaders of the See of Cebu.

Anyway, we went to the crypt of the Basilica Minore del Sto. Niño which is located just beside the sacristy. Access is through a door outside the church. The crypt is normally close on ordinary days but it is open on November 1 and 2. Though not as big in scale as the crypt of San Agustin in Intramuros, it nonetheless still contains the mortal remains of some personalities like Leandro Moran, OSA, the last Spanish rector of the Basilica and Guadalupe “Mimi” Trosdal, the anthropologist who restored the Sto. Niño de Cebu to its original fair color from black after World War II.

Below: A marble tombstone at the crypt of the Basilica.

From the basilica we walked all the way to Patria de Cebu right across the Cebu Cathedral to catch a jeepney that would stop at the vicinity of the Osmeña Cemetery. Unfortunately, upon reaching the intersection of T. Padilla and M.J. Cuenco, the route was diverted and we were forced to disembark and just walk all the way to our destination. I did not mind walking since it was just very near and since it was still early in the morning.

I’ve been to the Osmeña Cemetery already before with Jobers Bersales of USC and Carlos Apuhin of BPI. During my last visit, we went around and inside the stately Osmeña mausoleum but my second visit this time took me to the back portion of the cemetery were I saw an abandoned row of apartment-type niches that obviously date back to the Spanish colonial era. I do not know when they were exactly built but it surely is from the 19th century. I remember Jobers who remarked that Carreta Cemetery may have encompassed a much larger area to include what is now the Osmeña Cemetery.

Below: The stately Osmeña Mausoleum.

Below: The older part of the cemetery, abandoned niches that date back to the Spanish colonial era.

To be exact, the cemetery is not actually officially called Osmeña Cemetery. I do not know what its legal name really is but it has been called as such through the years because of the stately Osmeña Mausoleum that occupies a very large lawn right at the middle of it. As a matter of fact, it would seem like the cemetery is owned by the Roman Catholic Church since Cebu Archbishop Ricardo Cardinal Vidal said that he plans to rehabilitate the entire cemetery and convert it into a “heritage park.” The good cardinal quipped that he might even want to be buried there someday.

Carreta Cemetery, our next destination, was just a few meters away. It is by far one of the largest cemeteries in Cebu and one of the oldest (if not the oldest) too. Managed by the Roman Catholic Church, there is nothing left of it that would suggest its age but what makes it interesting are the various fenced plots within it such as the Asociacion Benefica Española de Cebu, which contains the mortal remains of some Filipino-Spanish families in Cebu, and the war veterans plot which contains the mortal remains of American soldiers and war veterans. An obelisk stands at the middle of the war veterans plot to commemorate the heroism of those who died in World War II.

Below: Tomb of an American soldier and an obelisk commemorating the heroism of those who died during World War II.

From Carreta we took our lunch at Jollibee after which we went to the Mabolo Cemetery where we saw nothing interesting. We decided to cool off at SM City and then went to the Cebu Chinese Cemetery, our last stop. The Cebu Chinese Cemetery is the largest and oldest Chinese cemetery in Cebu. Some Filipino-Chinese who helped shape and define the economy of Cebu are buried there. The Cebu Chinese Cemetery figures prominently in Chong Hua Hospital’s commemorative book since it was near there where the first hospital for the Chinese immigrants was built.

Below: Some tombstones at the Cebu Chinese Cemetery.

Below: Fancy looking mausoleums at the chinese cemetery.

One interesting thing about the cemetery is the arrangement of the mausoleums. A Filipino-Chinese friend told me that the mausoleum occupying the very middle of the cemetery belonged to the richest and most powerful Filipino-Chinese right before he died. I was expecting a Gaisano or Lu Do to be buried there but it belonged to someone else. True enough, this guy was really the richest and most powerful during his time although a number of Filipino-Chinese families rose to the economic ladder a few generations after.

Below: The tomb of Modesta Singson Gaisano, matriarch of the Gaisano clan, and a towering monument dedicated to Lu Do, founder of the Lu Do & Lu Ym Corporation.

The old rectory of the cathedral, now an ecclesiastical museum. Entrance fee is P50 for adults and P25 for children.

Location: Urdaneta corner P. Burgos Street, Cebu City.
How to get here: From major hotels and inns in Uptown Cebu, take a 21-B jeepney at Fuente Osmena and tell the driver to drop you off at “Sto. Nino.” You can also catch the 21-B jeepney at the PUV Terminal of Ayala Center Cebu. The Cathedral and the Basilica Minore del Sto. Nino are just a block apart from each other. The Cathedral Museum of Cebu is across the street beside the cathedral.

The church of the Metropolitan Archbishop of Cebu.

Location: Legaspi corner P. Burgos Street, Cebu City.
Date and Time: 10/10/2009, 01:20 PM